September 2026
The hardest dish
A gourmet dish with no point of comparison is easy to praise. A tomato sauce judged against everyone's grandmother is not. On why simple cooking is the hardest kind to get right.
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From the Notebook
Notes from the market, the kitchen and the road — written the way this trattoria is run: without hurry.
July 2026
Cooking for a few
There is one thing restaurants can't afford, and I can: time. On buying well at the market, cooking without hierarchy, and why presence at the table matters more than technique.
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